Pilgrimme（ピルグリム）のシェフ、Jesse McCleerly（ジェス・マックリーリー）の1日は朝の8時、淹れたてのコーヒーと共に始まります。レストランの営業日はそこからノンストップ。夜中までひたすらキッチンに立つのです。休日は買い出しや仕込みに追われ、5月に読み始めた村上春樹の小説も1ページもめくれない忙しさ。
そんな多忙なシェフを支えるように、農家や近隣の住人が家庭菜園で採れた珍しい食材をひっきりなしに運んでくれます。全員の収穫をどう平等に取り扱うかが至難の技で、「とても贅沢な問題だけど…。」と笑って返すシェフに、島の人達は「来年はどんな野菜が欲しいの？何を作って欲しい？」とリクエストを聞いてくるんだとか。そして決まってシェフは、その土壌に最適な野菜を育てて下さいとお願いするそうです。
観光客が少なくなるローシーズンは、Pilgrimmeの大半のお客はローカルに入れ変わります。自分達が育てた野菜が、シェフのマジックによってどんな変化を遂げるのか、そんな期待と誇りを持って皆食事を楽しむのではないでしょうか。シェフの掲げる地消地産は、温かさと微笑ましさに包まれたローカルコミュニティーとの絆の深さあってのものなのです。
彼らの農場まで出向く時のドライブも、シェフにとって貴重な時間。運転しながらの束の間の静かな時間と、その先で手にとったフレッシュな野菜を見た瞬間に料理のインスピレーションが湧くそうです。
週1で変わるメニューもあれば、1回きりで終わってしまうものもある。「全ては自然の成り行きで進んでいるんだよ」と、柔らかく語るシェフの生き方そのものが、料理に投影されている気がします。
レストランがお休みになる12月半ば～3月は、好きな読書やハイキングを楽しんだり、新しいレストランを試しに行ったり、時々友人の厨房に助っ人で入ることもあるそう。そんな行事をこなしているうちに春がやって来て、Pilgrimmeのキッチンがまた賑やかになります。
Pilgrimmeもそんな彼の日々に沿ってゆっくりと変わります。長い計画は1年先までが精一杯だから、とりあえず来年の夏にはパティオで楽しめるランチサービスをスタートする為にちょっと改築したい。余裕があれば、コースメニューの他にシェアプレート（大皿メニュー）やフィンガーフードを加えてみるのも楽しいかも。と、今の形に留まらず、彼自身の旅の途上で自由な構想と「成り行き」で変化していく様がとてもピュアでしなやかで新鮮に映ります。
因みに、レストランPilgrimmeのスペルはデンマーク語。英語スペルは「Pilgrim」で遠い長旅をして聖地に向かう巡礼者を意味しますが、シェフの過ごしたデンマークのNOMAでの時間は彼自身がPilgrimmeでした。
遠く離れた場所を好み、旅を経てしか辿り着けない山小屋のテーブルに座った時、シェフの次なるジャーニーへと招待されて行く…。唯一無二の存在のPilgrimmeはガリアノ島の青い森の中にひっそりと佇み、旅人を温かく迎えてくれます。
Photo by: YUSHiiN
[IN ENGLISH]
Pilgrimme is closed from mid-December to March. During this time, McCleerly enjoys going on hikes and catches up with his reading. It’s also a time he gets to recharge but it sounds like he sometimes doesn’t get too far from the kitchen. He has been known to help at his friend’s restaurants in the city and enjoy a meal or two at any new establishments. Once it starts to warm up for Spring, McCleerly is back at his kitchen.
A typical day at Pilgrimme begins at 8am with a freshly brewed coffee. It ends well into the night after all the patrons and staff leave. He may find himself away from the restaurant on his days off but it is usually filled with errands to help with food preparation like picking up ingredients from the local farmers and foraging the forest grounds.
The dedicated farmers appreciate the busy chef and often drop off their yield as a loving gesture of support. The Island’s gardeners also find their way to drop off their unique harvest to the chef; a true symbol of sharing rooted in Galiano. McCleerly remarked that figuring out how to use all the abundance is a dilemma that he is always happy to have. When the farmers asked what kind of crops he would like to see grown for the coming season, his supportive response was always “Whatever works best with your soil”. I felt a deep respect and an awareness of each other’s importance between the smiling chef and the loyal farmers of Galiano Island. The farm-to-table concept of Pilgrimme is deeply linked to the tight-knit support and love in the island community.
I was told that local residents often fill the cabin during the shoulder season when there are fewer tourists. I was in awe that the island community shows its support this way too. I imagined how it would feel like as a resident dining at Pilgrimme. I could only appreciate that their hearts must fill with pride when they are nourished by their harvest, their Galiano. It must feel gratifying and encouraging especially because it is made by McCleerly who is equally passionate about Galiano as they are.
McCleerly explained how he often finds inspiration when he visits the farmers. The drive, the farm smell and the fresh produce in hand all help him discover what to create for the spread at Pilgrimme. His menu is an organic concept. There may be menu items that change weekly, and some may only be offered at one sitting. This nonrestrictive approach to creating the dishes work in harmony with the Island and McCleerly’s vision. After spending some time with him, I could see that the process of making his dishes was an embodiment of how McCleerly viewed life as well. He focuses on the present moment and tries not to think too far ahead. Small changes happen as they happen. He ponders about a new lunch service on the patio next summer. Ideas of adding share-plates or finger foods run through his imagination. Rather than forcing a course of action, McCleerly cherishes the process of change when it feels ready to do so. He treasures the journey thoroughly and deliciously.